Geohopping across Nevada

Burners at incipient plate boundary in western Nevada. Are they waving California goodbye? (original unknown)

Many times I've crossed Nevada in the company of Frank DeCourten and Norma Biggar (hereafter called D & B). Actually I've never met either one, but I know their Roadside Geology of Nevada well. That's where I learned of the state's traumatic history—torn apart, reassembled, buried in ash and welded rock, and now being torn apart again. These stories can be hard to grasp, but I've read and reread the lengthy introduction enough to be awestruck by landscapes that many travelers find dull.

Sturdily bound, with high quality paper—my copy has survived lots of use.

Maps, diagrams and photos are abundant!

In the eight years since D & B published their book, I've often parked off the highway at their suggestion to study and photograph a geologic feature. I think of this as geohopping to geostops, rather than my usual geotripping to geosights (and later blogging about it). Now it's time to give the geostops their due.

One of my favorite stretches of highway between Laramie, Wyoming (home) and the California Central Coast (home of relatives) is US 6 across Nevada. Traffic is light, towns are few, and the geology truly is dramatic!

Geo highlights along US Highway 6, May 2025.

For example, about thirty million years ago, widespread cataclysmic destruction associated with the Great Ignimbrite Flareup (GIF) created Hell right here on Earth. Supervolcanoes erupted repeatedly across today's Nevada depositing ash thousands of feet deep, much of it welded into rock by the searing heat ("ignimbrite" means "fire cloud rock"). Trying to recreate that terrifying Flareup in my mind is one of the joys of driving across Nevada.

But it's impossible to properly imagine the GIF, in part because "no volcanic eruptions ever witnessed by humans come close to rivaling these prehistoric paroxysms." And the geologic record suggests it may be one of the largest ever. Consider this: in Nevada at least 230 supervolcanoes ejected an estimated 17,000 cubic miles of lava! Here's another way to think about it: at least 30 of these eruptions each equaled 600 Mt. St. Helens eruptions!

Blue Jay Maintenance Station on left, remnants of cataclysmic destruction behind.

About 90 miles southwest of Ely, I stopped at Palisade Mesa in the southern Pancake Range. Parking is available at a small rest area next to the Blue Jay Maintenance Station. Volcanic rocks of the GIF are nicely exposed on the steep slope to the east.

Rock pancakes stacked oldest to youngest, from bottom to top.

Palisade Mesa is one of multiple gently-tilted stacks of volcanic rock that give the Pancake Range its name. The escarpment at Blue Jay shows at least four episodes of eruption, all from the immense Central Nevada caldera complex. The pale bottom (oldest) layer is a lightly-welded tuff from an ash flow c. 31 million years ago. Next is a thin black band of glassy vitrophyre—"a flow of glowing ash that became densely welded."

Vitrophyre—beautiful memento of incandescent destruction. James St. John.

The massive brown layer above the vitrophyre is a younger tuff, about 30 million years old. Being a fan of columnar jointing, it was my favorite. The summit is a 2.75 million-year-old tuff that's sufficiently welded to provide an erosion-resistant cap.

I 💖 columnar jointing—created by contraction with cooling.

The view south beckoned.

Palisade Mesa obviously deserved a longer visit, perhaps a hike along the base and up the valley to the south. But not this time. Instead I continued west.

Those who cross the middle of Nevada (e.g. east to west) soon become aware of its extensive deformation even if they have no idea what happened. For example: When I left the Pancake Range I crossed Hot Creek Valley, then the Hot Creek Range, then Stone Cabin Valley, then the Monitor Range, and then Ralston Valley before stopping in Tonopah near the crest of the San Antonio Mountains. This is typical Nevada topography—valleys and mountain ranges one after another, all trending roughly north–south. The great pioneering geologist Clarence Dutton called them “an army of caterpillars marching north from Mexico".

Left of center, caterpillars are marching across the Basin and Range Province (NPS).

The cause of this curious pattern is east-west continental stretching, which started about 30 to 40 million years ago and continues today. Some parts of Nevada and adjacent Utah and California have nearly doubled in width! In the process normal faulting has dropped basins, leaving adjacent land standing high, as mountain ranges.

In Tonopah, I stopped for gas and groceries as I often do. Here Hwy 6 merges with heavily-traveled Hwy 95, but at Coaldale Junction they diverge, and once again I had the highway mostly to myself. This is where I stumbled upon Radio Goldfield several years ago, broadcasting very local news and interesting country-ish, old-timey, new-to-me music. It's still going strong.

At the advice of D & B, I kept an eye out for a diatomite quarry on the left, near the junction with NV Hwy 264. The white patches were obvious. This diatomite is thought to be the same age as late eruptions of the GIF, but the setting was entirely different—a shallow freshwater lake where diatoms (microalgae) basked in the sun. Now they're diatomaceous earth, a soft crumbly rock that's 80–90% silica. Among its many uses are metal polish, toothpaste, cat litter, dynamite, thermal insulation, and bonsai soil amendments.

I would have enjoyed examining the diatomaceous earth, but wasn't clear on ownership.

Diatomaceous earth up close; scanning electron micrograph by Dawid Siodłak.

After continuing east across Montgomery Pass, I dropped into Queen Valley for the final geostop of the day, parking in a large pullout not far from California. Across the valley was the north end of the White Mountains; the snowy Sierra Nevada was visible in the far distance. It was a lovely peaceful place, or so it seemed that day. But nearby there were clear signs of geologic trauma.

White Mountains rise steeply above floor of Queen Valley.

Normal faulting evidenced by triangular facets (arrows).

Across the valley at the base of the White Mountains is a normal fault just 3 million years old. This is the Queen Valley fault—a tiny piece of the immense Walker Lane. I had entered a profound but vague tectonic boundary, where the Basin and Range Province meets the great Sierra Nevada.

At Walker Lane (yellow), very different tectonic regions meet. SAFZ is San Andreas Fault Zone, a critical part of this story (Carlson et al. 2013).

Walker Lane is young—just 10 million years old at the south end, and only a few million at the north. The combination of Basin and Range extension and transverse movement of the Sierra Nevada has created a complex zone of faults that's poorly understood. Even so, Walker Lane generates a great deal of excitement among geologists. Perhaps a new plate boundary is forming! Maybe California will drift away!

Like the better known San Andreas Fault to the west, Walker Lane is contributing to the slow, incessant, contrary motions of the Pacific and North American tectonic plates, which are pulling a large part of California northward. Currently the San Andreas is responsible for about 80% of this movement but Walker Lane appears to be catching up.

Fauds & Henry (2008) predict that in another 7 to 8 million years or so, the northern part of the San Andreas will join Walker Lane, extending the Gulf of California north by hundreds of miles and turning California into a peninsula along a new plate boundary. 

If this tectonic shifting continues, as the authors think it will, California will become the island that was regularly reported by explorers hundreds of years ago! This was the "famous cartographic error that appeared on many European maps from the 16th to the 18th centuries" (David Rumsey Map Collection).

"Novissima et accuratissima totius Ameriae" by Nicolaes Visscher, 1690. Large island off the west coast of North America is California. DRMC

Peering even further into the future, we may well find that California Island has become an exotic terrane (quit snickering!). As such, it could travel far and wide before being stopped at some convergent plate boundary, thousands of miles from its origin at Walker Lane.

Emmie, our ephemeral lives mislead us. The Earth is far from stable.

Sources

agimark 2018. Splitting North America – The Walker Lane; Part 1 – The Tectonics; Volcano Hotspot blog. Accessed Dec 2025.

Carlson, CW, et al. 2013. Kinematics of the west-central Walker Lane ...  Geosphere 9: 1530–1551.

David Rumsey Map Collection, an unbelievably wonderful resource for fans of old maps. WARNING: it's very easy to spend a lot of time here. https://www.davidrumsey.com/

DeCourten, F, and Biggar, N. 2017. Roadside Geology of Nevada. Mountain Press.

Faulds, JE, and Henry, CD. 2008. Tectonic influences on the spatial and temporal evolution of the Walker Lane: An incipient transform fault along the evolving Pacific – North American plate boundary. Nevada Bureau of Mines and Geology, Arizona Geological Society Digest 22. The future of California is discussed on page 463. PDF

Wolterbeek, M. 2020 (Feb 18). How the burgeoning Walker Lane may split the American West; in Nevada Today, UNV Reno.